Data transfer options depend on System versions and connectivity.
Suggestions listed below start with the easiest method - importing to a brand-new Mac from a FireWire-equipped Mac - then progresses thru somewhat more complicated methods involving older machines and earlier Operating Systems.

What you will need:
A Firewire 400 to 800 adapter or cable (also known as Firewire 6-pin to 9-pin), with both machines powered on side-by-side.

First step: A careful cleanup of the old hard drive.
Open Applications -> Utilities folder and launch Disk Utility. Select your hard drive and click Verify Disk (under First Aid tab); if errors appear, they should be repaired before attempting to migrate your data. Also run Repair Permissions on the old drive one last time to make sure all is well. Now you're ready to migrate data. You can skip the rest of this step, but now is a good time to clean house, and here are a few suggestions:

Startup your old Mac - the one you'll copy from - launch your mail app and delete old emails, junk and spam, then empty trash in your email program. Open your web browser and delete any unused/unwanted bookmarks, clear browser's history, cookies and cache. (Shortcut: See Safari's "Reset" command under Safari menu.)

Next, go thru your hard drive: Drag temporary, unused, unwanted files and folders into the trash. (Best to leave Applications and Library folders alone, by the way.) If you're satisfied that you won't lose anything important, empty the trash; if you have doubts, you can empty trash later.

NOTE: If nCity performs data migration or backup services for you, we _will not_ delete anything, but we typically run Disk Utility before and after migration/transfer. We won't even empty the trash (although we are quite likely to suggest that you do).

 Data Migration to brand-new Mac:
On the first-run of a new Macintosh, importing data is merely one step in initial setup process; all it requires is the proper Firewire cable connecting old and new machines. Setup screens will walk you thru importing your data from an older Mac (including accounts and network settings) and it couldn't be easier. If you missed this import step or didn't have a Firewire cable handy, don't worry; see next entry (below).

 Using Migration Assistant:
Nested inside Applications -> Utilities folder is the MacOS Migration Assistant app. Launching Migration Assistant from your new Mac will initiate the same import process as above and walk you thru, instructing you to startup your old Mac in Target Disk Mode (hold "T" key during startup), then connect a Firewire cable between machines.






Is it possible? Absolutely. Is it practical? That's another question...
Right off the top, let it be known that I (for one) am not a Microsoft fan. We can help with the Mac side of your migration, and we can enlist additional assistance for the PC side if necessary, but only you can decide how far to go and what apps and files to bring along. (If you buy a new Mac from an Apple store, ask them about transferring your data for you.)
Catch-22.
If you must run Windows on a Mac, there are at least three ways to create a "virtual machine" solution: Apple's own Boot Camp (included with MacOS 10.5 Leopard and later), Parallels Desktop, and VMware's Fusion. These utilities all have one thing in common, and it's a potential deal-killer: You must have a licensed copy of Windows with a viable registration key. (The OEM Windows disk that came with your PC will not accept its registration key on a different machine.) Microsoft, for its part, wants to sell you Vista or Windows 7 - good luck finding XP.
The other major problem with running Windows on a Mac is the fact that Windows brings all of its virus and malware vulnerabilities with it, so you'll have to install, use and maintain all those anti-virus, anti-spyware, anti-adware programs that are mandatory for Windows users.

 Degrees of separation.
Programs that are completely Windows-dependent must (obviously) be run under Windows. Applications which are cross-platform (both Windows and Mac) may be able to read/write their own documents without need of Windows, which means importing to Mac shouldn't be a problem. Other apps may have two versions, one for PC, one for Mac, and can usually import their own files (with purchase of a Mac version), but there are notable exceptions: Some popular bookkeeping and spreadsheet apps are problematic, and some of these cannot even read their own files from a previous version, let alone import between platforms. Check upgrade and version specs for critical apps online if necessary, specifically file import/export options between versions and platforms.

 Best choice: Make a clean break.
People who say they only use email and internet should jettison everything Microsoft. Export your address book, emails and bookmarks to a backup, import these to Mac applications, and leave everything else behind. There are plenty of programs available for Macintosh to replace whatever software you might currently use, many of which are included with the MacOS (Safari, Mail, iPhoto, iTunes, Address Book, Preview [for pdf files], to name a few). Most quality apps are cross-platform these days.
If you must run a particular program under Windows, consider taking everything else off your old PC, disconnecting it from the internet, and dedicating that machine exclusively to running your one Windows program (at least until you pick a modern Mac replacement). Use your new Mac for everything else. You can always network the PC behind a firewall, if you wish.

 For more info:






Passive security and the MacOS:
Mac users haven't had to worry much about security issues - certainly not like the long-suffering Windows platform - so, suddenly having to deal with login accounts and passwords and such has been something of a problem for some in the Macintosh community. Apple's MacOS has a surprising amount of passive security built in (by "passive" I mean to exclude encryption and the more severe security tools also included in OSX). Almost all security measures are optional and/or automatic, making it easy to ignore passive security entirely - all, that is, _except_ for a few passwords.

 What's in a word?
Password-breaking programs and magic plug-in gizmos that retrieve secret codes, character-by-character, are the stuff of fiction. It only happens in Hollywood. Modern algorithms can encrypt a password right out of existence, and a lost password can effectively stop you in your tracks. And, unless you're willing to completely obliterate every bit of data and start all over from scratch, those old, forgotten, missing passwords have a way of coming back to haunt computers.
It helps to write down rarely-used passwords - along with email and network settings. Create a text file somewhere on your computer and print it out, or write it down on paper - just be sure to store such personal info in a secure location and remember where it is. Some day you'll be really glad you did.

 Is security all that necessary?
Yes, and no.
You've always had to have a password for email, and now you almost have to have one for login accounts, too. (You can skip the password step if you want to and just hit your enter/return key when prompted for a password.) If you set login to auto, the only time you'll be asked for your login password will be when you try to install software or run Software Update. Or, when your machine winds up here in the shop.
Passwords exist because there will always be that nasty element among us, and because privacy is a valued commodity. Security and self-defense are basic human rights, and both have become increasingly important over the years. The stakes are high, and security measures have become a necessity of life these days. The biggest threat to security on a Mac comes from people who have physical access to your machine (not from over the 'net).

 What happens if I lose my password?
Take your best guess: Try upper case, lower case, spaces, no spaces, every possibility you can think of. If you find it, write it down somewhere safe.
If it's gone forever, there isn't much we can do.
So..... don't lose it!






Real world security concerns (regarding Macs) revolve primarily around downloads that may contain a so-called Trojan Horse. This cannot happen without your active participation and knowledge; in other words, you're free to download and install malware if you wish - can't happen behind your back. If some message pops up online wanting you to download/scan/install something, don't. If you need a "viewer," utility or update, go to the source and get it, _do_not_ accept invitations found on the web.

In order to install anything, you must enter your login password, then you'll be informed if you're about to install an application (and you must OK it).

In the case of email attachments, a virus might well be attached to some email message; while it cannot affect your Mac, you can certainly pass it along if forwarded to a Windows user.

Best advice is to simply be aware, be suspicious of any uninvited prompts, and if there's any doubt, don't do it.






Network options are determined by available ports and protocols.
Best choice is Wireless (Airport) or Ethernet which allows multiple Macs to share files, printer and internet connection. Cat5 Ethernet cables are readily available, and a quick, small network is easy to setup on modern Macs.
  • Plug ethernet cables between machines (or connect thru router).
  • Start File Sharing on each Mac (if not already set).
  • Look under Network icon in the Finder for connected machine(s).
Ethernet and wireless networks:
For a small office network (LAN) of reasonably current Macs, use ethernet cable and/or AirPort to connect machines to a central router or gateway (with modem) in a star configuration. Number of router ports dictates maximum number of networked machines. (Some routers include a printer port.) Early AirPort used 802.11b; AirPort Extreme works with 802.11g wireless routers, current standard is 802.11n (all are backwards compatible).

Simple 2-Mac network over ethernet:
If a crossover cable is required, the Macs will automatically detect and adjust as needed. Look closely at the illustration (right) and you'll see that all four orange and green wires are reversed compared to standard ethernet (just above). This is a crossover ethernet cable.

 Firewire (machine booted in Target Disk Mode):
Connect machines using a Firewire cable. Startup the target machine while holding down the "T" key (Target Disk Mode). It will appear as another hard disk on desktop of host machine.

 Sneakernet:
When all else fails, you may be reduced to this, the oldest networking technique available: Copy files to removable disk, then carry disk to second machine. Rinse and Repeat.






I tried several times to reinstall a driver for my printer, why won't it work?
Installers (generally speaking) do one of three things:
 1) They blindly install software regardless of previous installations.
 2) They check for previously installed software before installing anything, and offer continue/delete-install/quit options.
 3) They may or may not overwrite previously installed files from earlier and/or current installations. A corrupt file may be skipped, or it might be replaced.
 It depends entirely on how the Installer was written.
Because of this, it is usually wise to delete (or remove and archive) previous/multiple installations of drivers/apps/software before reinstalling - unless, of course, the installation is an update/upgrade which requires the presence of previously installed software.
Device drivers may not have an "Uninstall" option, and may not be written to check for prior installations. In addition, drivers may already be included in your Operating System, making installation of a printer driver unnecessary (and possibly problematic). Drivers on CDs included with printers are often outdated, too.

How can I get a disk out of my CD/DVD drive?
Holding the mouse button down during startup should eject all removable media, including CDs/DVDs. If that doesn't work, you may have other issues and might want to consider bringing your machine to the shop.

My email settings are correct. Why can't I send/receive email?
If you haven't changed any network/mail settings on your Mac, and email worked yesterday, it probably not your fault. Your service provider may be offline temporarily; wait a day (max) and try again. Or try your machine on a different network. Broadband here in Nevada County is notoriously flaky.

Do I need an anti-virus program?
The vast majority of our clients (and I'd venture to guess Mac users in general) have never encountered a virus. Ever. That's not to say there's no risk, but for most Mac users anti-virus software isn't a necessity.
Of course, if you are running Windows on your Mac, your Windows partition _is_ susceptible to all that Windows malware out there, and you _must_ run the same anti-virus, anti-spyware, anti-adware, anti-whatever utilities that are so popular on Windows PCs.

Do I need to run Software Update?
If you have broadband (DSL, cable, satellite) the answer is probably, at least periodically. On the other hand, if it works don't fix it. Good to backup your boot volume prior to applying significant updates; if something goes wrong, reverting to a backup may be your best and only option for recovery.

What does "Disk is almost full" message mean?
It means you're about to run out of space on your hard drive. If this happens, you will be unable to save anything new, applications may quit unexpectedly without room to work, and your machine may eventually refuse to startup. You might be able to buy a little time by moving photos, movies, music and large files off the drive to storage on CDs or other volumes, and you can also reclaim some space by deleting cache files, old emails and unwanted debris - but these solutions probably won't work for long.
A certain amount of free space is required to operate efficiently, and a full disk can effectively prevent use of maintenance and optimization utilities. You may need to add a second drive and/or replace your existing drive with a larger one, then copy all your data to the new volume. (If you don't have a backup, now might be a good time to set one up.)