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A common question...
It usually comes up when there's a problem, but just because a computer isn't working correctly doesn't mean it's finished. There are a myriad of factors to consider when deciding between repair versus replacement - beginning with your machine's update and upgrade potential.
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Updates are best managed manually.
System Preferences (or Settings/General) under Apple menu, select Software Update. Updates_ are generally desirable, but auto download and install is not (on by default). Turn it off:
Uncheck the box next to "Automatically keep my Mac up to date," enter login password, then click Advanced button circled above which will open this menu:
Recommend unchecking all boxes, or leave just the one shown - you can always download updates at your convenience, as necessary, preferably after making a backup. Leaving these settings turned on creates a lot of unnecessary activity and may cause problems, especially if an install is interrupted. And, instead of installing an update, it may UPGRADE to a new OS you might not be ready for.
Opening Software Update will check for updates AND upgrades
Software Update automatically goes online and finds both updates and upgrades, putting upgrade icon and button front and center, while updates are a bit harder to find. This is where you need to be careful if looking for updates.

Updates are only shown when you click "More Info..." - The upgrade button presented will typically be the very latest OS your machine will run and might not be the best choice. When it's time to upgrade, best to go to next OS, not necessarily the newest or latest OS as presented.
Updates for newer System versions are harder to find
Beginning with OS 13 Ventura, everything changes, including Finder's interface. Gone are the familiar System Preferences, replaced with a morass of items listed in the new System Settings:
Open System Settings, select General in left column, then click Software Update. Here you can set Automatic updates to off (recommended, see above). Scroll down past all the wonderful features in the latest/greatest OS version, past the 1st "More Info..." link with even more wonderful features, and look for a 2nd "More Info..." near bottom of the window (under Other Updates Available). Click this 2nd "More Info..." to apply any available updates to your current OS version.
Downloading updates to current OS - finding updates shouldn't be this difficult
Updates = good, upgrades can wait until necessary. If it works, don't fix it.
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Collect machine specs - OS version 10.15 and earlier
If your machine refuses to startup, info may be obtained from its serial number, located on bottom case of notebooks, under the stand of iMacs, under port array of MacPro towers - and in the About This Mac window.
Assuming machine is functional, open Apple menu and select "About This Mac":
Make a note of OS version, Processor info and serial number as shown in About This Mac window; machine's model year may also be displayed there.
Collect machine specs - newer OS versions
Later "About This Mac" windows (in the bland style of newer OS versions) have a "More Info..." button that takes you to the General window of System Settings (formerly System Preferences) shown below.
More Info button opens General pane of System Settings; scroll to bottom of General to find the "System Report..." button:
System Report opens machine's System Profile containing a detailed list of all components, assemblies and technical specs (including battery condition and charging info for notebooks).
Age and obsolescence
First signs of an obsolete OS are usually internet issues; unrecognized file formats, missing images, minor malfunctions. A current web browser is necessary, which requires a reasonably current OS, which in turn depends on machine's processor or CPU. If your Mac can run one of the latest OS versions, an upgrade may be all that's necessary.
In the rare event that a machine never goes online, it will continue to do whatever it's been doing without need of an upgrade. There are older Macs out there (usually towers) serving dedicated use in recording studios and design shops that never connect to the internet. The end of the road for these non-internet Macs is usually when a peripheral (such as a printer) fails and replacement requires a newer OS than the machine can run. But these Macs are the exception.
In most cases, a Mac is considered obsolete when it can no longer run a currently supported OS. Apple typically provides updates for a few OS versions prior to the latest release, but if the last OS your Mac can run is no longer being updated or supported, the machine has gone obsolete.
More info on OS versions and links to System requirements for each OS are posted here: Tech Support/Upgrades
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Yes... and no.
Generally speaking, the older the machine, the easier it is to service and/or upgrade. If it is capable of running a currently supported MacOS release (any of the last five OS versions), it is well worth upgrade/service if machine is in decent condition. When compared to price, upgrades and port options of a new Mac, servicing your present machine might be the most cost-effective option.
MacBook Air models, designed to be light weight and compact, are somewhat limited in storage capacity and power as compared to Pro models. Airs are perfect for anyone dealing primarily with text files - emails, documents and such - but adding photos, music or video may quickly consume available storage space due to size of these file types - video files are especially large.
MacBook Pro notebooks typically have more power and storage, priced accordingly. Be advised, most Macs from 2016 and later cannot be upgraded after purchase. Beginning in 2016, both RAM (memory) and storage (drive) are soldered to logic board (referred to as onboard) and cannot be changed; if more storage or memory is needed, it must be specified when ordering.
Proprietary Gen5 SSDs found in some non-TouchBar models may also present some problems with upgrades and data recovery. See Tech Support/Drives for more info on drive types in use today.
Removable (proprietary) Gen5 SSD from non-TouchBar MacBook Pro
Other considerations
Optical drives were abandoned in 2012; if CD/DVD capability is required, external USB-connected optical drives are available. Port types are constantly changing as well, and many have been discontinued: USB 1/2/3, Firewire, HDMI video and Thunderbolt have all been replaced by USB-C ports (aka Thunderbolt3/4/5). Adapters are required for most external devices.
MagSafe and MagSafe2 charge ports have been replaced by MagSafe3 or by USB-C ports in some models, used to charge internal battery in Mac notebooks. (See Ports and Adapters graphic, below.)
Read the fine print
New MacBook models after about 2015 _cannot_ be upgraded after purchase due to Apple's "onboard" RAM and "onboard" storage. Having all data on a proper and current backup is critical.
iMac models face a similar dilemma, since disassembly and service of the older models can be quite laborious. Adding RAM to 21" iMacs requires complete disassembly. Upgrading the 27" iMacs is quick and easy, thanks to a RAM door that the 21" models lack. Starting around 2021 with Apple's M1 CPU, iMacs are all 24", come in various colors, and have no upgrade options after purchase. Any/all service/repairs have been eliminated, aside from replacing USB-C ports.
Another consideration involves graphics card (GPU) options. If GPU is the "onboard" type, upgrades are only possible at purchase. This may be another advantage of the older 27" iMac over others, as some 27" iMacs have a GPU separate from logic board.
Before investing in any new Mac, it pays to research and understand what terms like "onboard" or "configurable" mean, and how these details will affect use and operation. Know how much storage you will need, how much RAM your apps and OS will require, and what port types and adapters you will need. Investigate other relevant tech specs, too, especially if video, photography and/or music is important to you. You may not be interested in all the tech specs and details involved, but unless you take the time to learn these things you run the risk of making an expensive mistake. It matters.
New or used?
Older i5, i7 and i9 CPU machines provide many ports and options newer Macs may lack. These machines are holding their value and may look quite appealing when compared to limitations imposed by newer models (see next entry).
The newer the machine, the longer its useful life will be, in terms of OS upgrades. It should be noted that most Macs cannot run OS versions older that the one it shipped with - important only if you are running critical software from years ago. Knowing your OS, app and storage requirements prior to purchasing any machine, new or used, will prevent regrets later.
One machine to avoid entirely is the 12" MacBook with a single USB-C port. This model was discontinued after only two years, just long enough to establish a horrible reputation.
Change isn't always for the better
Starting around 2012, Apple began using high-rez displays in new Macs known as the Retina display. While some people wouldn't know the difference unless viewing two machines side-by-side, most photographers and graphic designers appreciate the improved sharpness, clarity and color saturation.
Retina displays add a few bucks to purchase price (and replacement, if broken), but there was another change to _all_ Retina MacBooks that has nothing to do with the screen: Batteries are glued to top case/keyboard/trackpad assembly, which makes battery replacement an expensive proposition for early Retina display models. Current models employ a different adhesive system which is much easier to deal with, but those early ones used industrial-strength goo that is no fun to remove.
Another recent development is the ill-fated "butterfly" mechanisms in notebook keyboards; early butterfly keyboards proved to be extremely sensitive to dust and handling, resulting in complaints of sticking, missing and malfunctioning keys, and a service program (here). Later models have an improved keyboard.
With "onboard" (soldered) RAM and onboard SSDs, delicate display modules and glue-in batteries, the care, use and maintenance of these late-model notebooks takes on new significance. Know what you're buying:
- Backup is critical. If a non-removable drive fails, it takes the machine with it. Conversely, if machine fails, it takes the drive and all data with it. In either case, recovering data may be impossible. Same for machines equipped with Apple's T2 chip and proprietary Gen5 drives. Maintaining proper backup is more important than ever. Even cloud backup is better than nothing.
- Internal SSDs that store 500GB or less may force data storage on an external drive or on the cloud. Many people are not okay with the cloud - for a variety of reasons. Good to have options.
- Keyboard protection is cheap and all but mandatory. We recommend a keyboard cover on notebooks to protect 'em from spills and dust; links are posted up-front on nCity's homepage.
- Upgrading RAM is no longer possible. Same goes for "onboard" storage that cannot be removed or upgraded. Know what you're getting into and consider upgrade options prior to purchase.
- An extended Apple warranty on new (expensive) notebooks might be a good idea, too. (Avoid all 3rd-party warranties.) Some batteries swell up over time (our TechTales page has a few examples of these), possible keyboard issues, expensive displays, hard-wired RAM, finicky SSD drives - problems with any one of these will exceed cost of Apple's 3-year warranty (which DOES NOT cover spills, drops or damage, BTW). Having a protective case and pair of kid gloves is also recommended.
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Broadband = minimum 3Mbps.
When you download and install a new OS, or startup a new Mac, you will be taken thru a few setup steps. One is signing into iCloud. Don't. You can sign in later. Another is encryption. Don't turn FileVault on, either. If you don't know what these things are, find out BEFORE you activate them.
If you happen to have a blazing-fast connection to the 'net, cloud apps and storage will work pretty much as they did when everything resided on your machine. If you have something less than top speed you may notice delays accessing/using cloud apps, and if your internet connection is less than 3Mbps you technically don't have broadband at all. Best to have apps and storage installed on your computer and physical backup drives in your possession.
Privacy and cloud access
The trend these days is to depend on cloud services for everything, from programs that used to be installed on your computer, to cloud storage of your photos, documents, email and other files. Is this a good idea?
As mentioned elsewhere on this site, cloud backup isn't a full backup, it's only a backup of unique files (sans OS, settings, apps, etc.). Proper backup includes all data copied and stored on an external drive using Time Machine or a suitable backup app. Cloud backup is better than nothing, but recovery will require installing OS and apps before retrieving cloud files, adding quite a bit of time and effort to the recovery process. Cloud storage - assuming you're using iCloud and not some bogus scam site - cloud storage can be problematic as well, putting your ISP, network connections, components and passwords in the way.
And, BTW, according to the end user license agreement (EULA) that nobody ever reads, you forfeit exclusive ownership of any/all files you may upload to cloud storage.
Encryption: FileVault
Located in System Preferences under "Security and Privacy" is the FileVault tab which allows you to encrypt all data. This may be useful for classified information, but it is largely unnecessary for most of us.
It also has a few side effects: If you forget the password, your data is not only lost, it's scrambled. Turning FileVault on compresses data storage to some degree, so reaching a full drive with it on means a _very_ full drive. Some FV versions were known to lockout troubleshooting routines, others can cause startup issues; and turning FV off can take many hours, typically all night. Why complicate matters? If it's off, leave it off - and don't turn it on when prompted by a new OS.
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Hard disk drives, solid state drives and hybrid drives
Compare drive capacity and price of hard disk drives (HDDs) to storage capacity and price of solid-state drives (SSDs). While SSD prices are less than half of what they once were (and dropping), they are still typically, byte-for-byte, far more expensive than conventional hard drives. A 1TB desktop HDD (that's 1024GB) costs around $50, and HDD capacities go up to 16TB these days. SSDs are typically around $100 per TB, and far more expensive than that if purchased as an upgrade from Apple.
Notebook SSDs may reach or exceed the 2-4TB capacity of current rotational 2.5" notebook drives, but be prepared for sticker shock. Newer notebooks and iMacs employ a blade-type SSD that is often machine and model-specific, much more compact (and expensive) than the old 2.5" HDD configuration.
Hybrid drives are part SSD (essentially an enormous cache) and part HDD in a single package, a decent compromise between SSD speed and HDD storage at a reasonable price. Apple's Fusion drive setup uses two drives, an SSD with OS and apps alongside a second, rotational drive providing storage. Late-2012 MacBook Pros, still equipped with optical drives, are good candidates for this same arrangement since they have a second SATA bus. A $20 adapter mounts an SSD and replaces the CD/DVD drive inside the machine. Many late-2012 MacBook Pros can run Catalina, too.
The advantage of an SSD is, of course, speed. That is, read/write speed, with faster startup and faster write times. Actual working speed is determined by RAM, but faster read/write ops improves overall performance. What typically suffers with SSDs is storage space - one reason people are being pushed into cloud storage.
Storage (drive) and RAM upgrades may no longer be possible
Be advised: Newer MacBooks and iMac models are a bit more difficult to service than their older siblings, so ask lots of questions before you buy and make certain you understand options and limitations. As they say, "the devil is in the details" and there's no shortage of details these days. Simple service procedures that used to take 5-30 minutes on older models (up to about 2012), can now take 2-3 hours or more - no joke. Apple clearly wants you to buy all upgrades at the time of purchase, as upgrading later may not be a possibility (see Machine Upgrades, above).
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Computer use and software considerations
If you have mission-critical software, check availability of new versions and check your software's System requirements before buying a new (or used) machine.
If you're like most people, your activity consists mainly of email, internet, the occasional photo and some music, maybe a game or two. If that's the case, there's no reason why you shouldn't keep your Mac updated with the latest available MacOS and apps, and you have little to worry about.
But - if you run a critical database, high-end music studio, do video editing or complicated graphics, or use your computer to drive expensive machines and equipment, you may have a lot to worry about. Especially if the software and/or equipment you count on is no longer available or cannot be updated.
Upgrades are easy and effective when you keep your computer current, but there are situations when the need to upgrade can cascade into major difficulties. For example:
- Upgrading past three or more OS versions at once
- Upgrading with older peripherals/equipment attached
- Upgrading on a network of mixed machines/platforms
- Upgrading while running a custom (possibly extinct) database
Some OS/Mac upgrades contain significant changes to such low-level functions as drive format, CPU type, and other things that have the potential to make prior OS/software combinations completely incompatible. Apple, to its credit, has made such transitions as painless as possible in the past, with built-in emulation software to get us over the hump (Rosetta2). But these things don't last forever...
Change is unavoidable
Unfortunately, the longer you put it off, the more difficult and complicated the upgrade can become. We've had to port critical client data (including maps, charts and graphs), from a long-extinct '90s database into a modern program when the owner's 22-year-old iMac died. That job involved purchase and refurb of an intermediate-age machine/OS, then converting all data - at least twice - in a long, complicated, impossible-to-explain process that is best avoided.
Here at the shop, we run a custom one-off database written back in the day when there was no canned software suitable for our purposes, a 2-part relational database that had to be completely rewritten with the advent of OSX, and again a few years later, so we're well acquainted with the issue.
Bottom line: Dragging an old database into the 21st century and trying to make it work is often more expensive, time-consuming and troublesome than starting over with an all-new routine. Best thing is to stay reasonably current and avoid falling into the gulf between antique and modern.
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Port changes on new Macs
Apple's new Thunderbolt ports can support a variety of connections, including external displays using HDMI, DVI, VGA; Thunderbolt2/3/4; all USB types; even Firewire. Each of these connections requires a proper adapter.
It should be noted that Apple Thunderbolt and USB-C ports/cables may look identical at a glance, but they are not. These connectors may carry as many as 10 circuits (Thunderbolt) or as few as 4 (simple USB). Consequently, cables are also designed for different functions. A 10-conductor Thunderbolt cable can do it all, while a 4-conductor cable cannot carry data, only power.
Notebooks ports are all compatible with Thunderbolt, with one port used to charge the battery; earlier notebooks used MagSafe1 or MagSafe2 for power, and new notebooks use MagSafe3 (all shown below). MacBook Pro models may have a variety of other ports, depending on year/model.
iMac ports include headphone, USB3, Thunderbolt, and some have Ethernet, video out, and a camera SD card slot. Firewire has been replaced by Thunderbolt. Older 27" iMacs have a RAM door for easy upgrades, 21" iMacs must be disassembled to upgrade RAM. New 24" iMacs have zero upgrade options.
External hardware compatibility
Make certain any critical peripheral devices or hardware will function with a new or upgraded Mac, and check System requirements for running critical apps. Clients using CNC machines, plotters/cutters, wide-format printers and other expensive output devices should check for updates from device manufactures before upgrading OS or moving to a new machine in order to avoid problems.
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Do you really need to be portable?
If your laptop or notebook computer never leaves your desk, consider replacing it with a desktop model and get more bang for your bucks. iMacs have bigger screens, more storage potential, and wireless keyboard/mouse (or trackpad) that allows better ergonomics for more comfort. Desktop machines don't get lost or stolen, they don't suffer drops and spills, there's no battery/charger to deal with, and they're roughly the same price as comparable notebooks.
iPhones and iPads can handle most portability needs these days (short of content creation) and these are much more convenient than lugging around a notebook. We see a lot of beat up notebooks here... if you don't have to be portable, consider upgrading to a desktop iMac and getting an iPad for travel.
Use a MacMini or notebook to replace your TV
Say goodbye to the wasteland of television (if you haven't already) and switch to internet on your flat-screen TV. Perfect arrangement is a MacMini with wireless keyboard and mouse or trackpad, but notebook computers work nicely, too. Using a computer means you are not limited to paid content, you have access to the entire internet (including paid content), and most TV programming is available along with an endless assortment of web sites.
If using a wireless keyboard/mouse/trackpad isn't in the cards, you can use an app on your iPhone or iPad instead. And, using Safari (or your choice of browser) from your computer is a vast improvement over software that ships with flat-screen TVs. Watch what you want, when you want, on your schedule, and leave legacy media behind.
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